This model of Civic Ej9 features a 90 Hp, Single on head camshaft, 16 Valve Engine which is almost the same as D14A2, D14A3, D14Z1 and D14Z2.

On the stock version it features an uncommon OBD2 SFI (Semplified fuel injection) which means it has no sequential injection but 4 injectors wired in 2 batches (1+3 and 2+4).

Civic Ej9 d14 engines power expectations:

As it only produces 90 Hp (Naturally aspirated tuning would increase it’s power to the track at 140 Hp at the best, of course with a lot of cash spent on it), the engine was still at perfect compression and not burning any oil, I decided to go the turbo route.. Which could lead to over 180 Hp.
Everybody would just swap a DOHC B16A2, B18C4, B18C6, B18C or whatever and call it done, I didn’t do so and it was a wonderful decision.

Before starting I’ve read on Dodo Bizar website (THANKS A LOT for your website) how to convert to OBD1 the whole car in order to use a P28 Ecu (Which is chippable).

Civic Ej9 Obd1 Conversion: What’s needed

What i needed to convert to OBD1 was:

Civic Ek3 obd2a d15z6 engine wiring harness (Stock harness could also be repinned but using ek3 wiring is pretty straightforward and saves a lot of time),
Civic Ek3 obd2a d15z6 Distributor,
Civic Eg5 obd1 d16z6 Intake Manifold with sensors and flexible fuel line attached to rail (D16Y8 could also be used, virtually any OBD1 OR OBD2 manifold could work but d16z6 and d16y8 should be the one which would produce more power)
OBD2A to OBD1 ecu wiring converter (can be bought from several places very cheap),
– Some water hoses and worm gear hose clamps,

The problem you could run into are the following:

– Accelerator bracket must be fabbed up (very easy task, look what i’ve used)

d16z6 intake manifold

– To only convert to obd1 you can either use your stock injectors which will plug to the harness but those are only 190cc. You can also use OBD2 or OBD1 injectors from d16z6, d16y8, b16a2 etc which are 240cc but keep in mind that OBD1 injectors clip are a little bit different and needs to be modified (or you can buy obd1 to obd2 injectors clip converters).

– Small water hose from the manifold needs to be routed to iacv (Idle air control valve), its exit has to be routed back to the rear block pipe water return nipple.

– Fuel flexible line, (the one from filter to rail with double banjo) needs to be slightly modified, i cut the tabs to allow installing it at different angle just because it was shorter and didn’t reach the rail at stock angle.

– Alternator plug is different: get creative, i’ve removed some plugs pin from the old engine harness and used them to insert into the different plug of the alternator (or you can get a obd2a alternator but that’s not really needed).

– Intake air Temperature (IAT) sensor plug is different and needs to be addressed as above.

To help you with that you can find easily the civic ek workshop manual or haynes manual where there are enough info to make a civic from scratches hahah.
If you have trouble finding it just write me.

Now about ecu tuning:

After all the above has been done, you have to flash a custom map into the previously chipped p28 or p30 (or other OBD1 Ecus) eeprom sst27sf512 or sst27sf256.

If you need a D14 base map >here< you will find the one i used (which was taken from a real obd1 d14 read by Dodo Bizar and posted by him in his forum) slightly modified to achieve 14.7 Afr in idle and partial throttle and to achieve 12.5 in full throttle.

The important things are to disable checksum routine, vtec, Knock sensor, O2 Heater (if you have 1 wire O2 sensor) and then, if you start from p28 base map, resize injectors accordingly to what you have installed.

About the ignition timing, I will explain in another article what I do to street tune a car. For a stock or bolt-on d14 i suggest to use dodobizar’s extracted base map.

Stay tuned.